Instructions:

1. Take the two short pieces of string and tape them to the ends of the spine. They should sit on the edge of the spine, angle the edges away slightly so that you can tape them on the outside of the journal where they will be out of the way.

2. Using a double thread of embroidery thread (2 threads) of each colour you have selected, tie the ends of the two pieces together.

3. Thread the other ends of the thread into your 2 needles. (If you do not want to use two colours, ignore this step and thread only one needle tying it off at the end).

4. Open up the first signature (this should be 3 pages in – easy to find by the internal binding) and carefully punch a small hole about 1cm from the top of the page, wiggle the needle and push it out through the glued binding then pull it out. (This is only to make a hole, not to actually sew here yet – you can also use an awl/skewer).

   • If the paper at the top of your page is compromised, ripped/fragile, you can punch the hole further down, but you will need to do this in the same position on each signature so that it remains uniform.

5. Push the needle through the hole from the outside in, and thread it over the edge of the paper, covering the piece of string. Do this 5 times.

   • Be careful to secure the knot on the first stitch, you may need to hold the tails of the knot in place for a few stitches.  Don’t pull the stitches too tight, this will rip the paper.

6. Once you have done your 5 loop stitches, pick up the needle with the other colour threaded and push it through under the stitches on the outside of the binding. This helps to secure the thread and keep it neat.

7. Open your pages to the centre of the next signature. This will be 6 pages from the first signature centre (recognisable by the binding stich in the centre).

8. Repeat steps 5 – 7 alternating colours, until all the signatures are sewn in. The purpose of this is to create a nice bound finish at the end of the spine and to further attach the linen binding to the journal. 

   • If you need to add more thread, tie off the ends and tie the new thread onto where you finished (thread it through the needle first).

9. Measure your spine binding, you want to start about 1-2mm from the sewing at the ends. Then cut the fabric tape to this measurement.

   • Any heavy-duty tape will do, it will work best with a high adhesive content and threads running through the tape for integrity.

10. Take the two pieces of cardboard for the front and back cover.  Line them up so that they sit evenly on each side with your bound pages in the middle.  The spine of the bound pages should sit 1-2mm above the front and back cover.  If you feel that the cover is too big (it overhangs your paper too much) you can trim the covers using a metal ruler and stanley knife – mark where you want to cut with a ruler first.

11. Use the bulldog clips to hold the front and back cover to the bound paper where you want it to sit.

12. Place the tape over your linen binding and the front and back cover, smooth any loose thread ends down along the spine so that they are under the tape and neatly secured. Press down hard to ensure that the tape is firmly securing both the front and back cover and attached to the spine.  It can help to run the handle of the scissors over to really get it attached.

13. When you open your journal, there will be a slight gap between where the bound paper is and the cover. Push the cover back so that it is open but flat and push it forward towards the open pages so that there is no gap. Take 3-4 pieces of masking/washi tape and tape where the cover meets the page. All this does is to keep the cover looking neat on the outside and to give it a rounded edge on either side of the spine.

14. Take your fabric cover and lay your journal over it, opening up the front and back pages.  Tuck the ends of the fabric in and close the journal adjusting the fabric so that it is tight but not stretched. If you need to adjust the size of your fabric do so.

15. Bulldog clip the back cover to the pages with the fabric tucked in. Then ensure that the fabric is lined up carefully over the front cover. Using fabric scissors, cut the corners off.  Leave at least 1 cm from the corner point.  Open the journal slightly and tuck the front cover in and secure with bulldog clips. Leave the sides of the fabric hanging out and repeat the corner cutting for the back cover.

16. Ensure that the fabric is secure on the back cover bulldog clips. Sit the journal on a flat surface, front cover open and spine down. Carefully mark on the fabric where the spine meets the front cover (repeat on the back cover by removing the bulldog clips, put them back on for the next step).

17. Make sure that both ends of the fabric are secured to the journal with clips and that the fabric is tight but not stretched.  Check the markings on the fabric at the ends of the spine. Ensure the markings are correct then carefully cut the fabric on both sides stopping 1cm-.5cm from the spine. Tuck the piece of fabric in the centre under and press down so that the fabric forms a slight crease and stays tucked in (you can pinch with your finger nails to help this), you may need to cut a bit further in so that it shows of the binding underneath rather than covering it.  

18. Open the back cover and using the masking/washi tape, tape the sides of the fabric cover in place. This will be glued first then the ends. Repeat with the front cover then return to the back.

19. One side at a time, take the tape off the fabric and put a thick line of glue along the edge of the cardboard, smear it down towards the centre of the board (enough so that all the fabric will be covered when you fold it down).

20. Fold the fabric down and press it into the glue. Add more glue to the outside of the fabric if there are any spots that are dry. 

    • It’s better to add more glue if required than having too much. Work on it slowly. Too much glue can leak onto the cover and depending on the fabric they may leave a discolouration.

21. Repeat on the other edge. Then on the end, carefully tucking the corners in so that they create a neat finish (add more glue where fabric touches fabric). .

22. Using your scrap plastic sheet, place this between the glued cover and the first page to avoid glue transfer, the repeat steps 19 – 21 on the front cover. 

    • Check as you go that the cover has not shifted and still fits well over the journal.

    This is a great time to take a break, if you have access to outside and it is sunny you can place your journal in the sun briefly.

23. Lay your journal flat and measure the inside of your journal, from the edge of the front cover to the edge of the first sheet of paper. Then measure the height of the cover. Take approximately 1-.5cm from these measurements.

24. Mark out the measurements on the paper you will use for your end pages, rule a line with a pencil and cut using paper scissors.

25. Put the glue onto the back of the edge paper and spread it evenly.  Carefully place the edge paper over the inside cover and first page of your journal. Repeat on the other side.

    • If the paper does not line up well with your first page of handmade paper, this is not a problem and can be tidied up later if required.

26. Insert your scrap plastic between pages 1 and 2 on both ends to avoid the glue coming through from the end pages. Sit your journal up and open so that it can air dry quickly.  You can once again place it outside in the sun but this can also cause warping and issues if it is windy.

27. When your journal is dry (or tacky is enough), you can trim the end page glued to the handmade paper to neaten up this edge with paper scissors.

     

    The journal is finished! 
    Allow at least 12 hours for the glue to dry fully before allowing the pages to close fully.